Eating Out in China’s Oldest Capital

February 14, 2017

In 1999, in China’s oldest capital, our hotel was in sight of Xian’s city walls.  We had a view of the ancient battlements that were several hundred years old and sinking. At night, the walls and towers were outlined with white Christmas lights.

I ached to get up there and walk on those walls that were wide enough to drive cars on.  I’d have to wait more than nine years before that happened.

To get an idea of the history of this city, it helps to know that it was the capital longer than any other city in China, and was first called Chang’an before it became known as Xian.

Several dynasties ruled China from this city:

BC 221-206 – Qin (Ch’in) Dynasty
BC 206 – 9 AD – Han Dynasty
581-618 AD – Sui Dynasty
618-906 AD – Tang Dynasty
Timeline of Chinese History and Dynasties

Beijing wouldn’t become the capital of China until 1279 AD during the Yuan Dynasty when Kublai Khan was emperor.

On our second day in Xian, we walked from the hotel and through an opening in the ancient wall into the city to a Xian restaurant. I went in first and the hostess, who didn’t speak a word of English, handed me a menu written in English.

Anchee, dressed more like a Chinese peasant than an American, walked in after me, and she was handed a menu written in Chinese. Then she glanced over my shoulder at my menu before taking it out of my hands and giving it back to the hostess.

“We’ll use the Chinese menu,” she said. Anchee grew up in China during Mao’s Cultural Revolution and didn’t leave until she was 28.

The prices in Mandarin were less than half the English version.  A stunned look appeared on the hostesses face.  It was a Candid Camera moment, and it was all I could do not to laugh.

This doesn’t mean every restaurant in China does this. In fact, most don’t. The double menu caper was probably the idea of the owner of that specific restaurant in a city known for tourism due to the Terra Cotta warriors and the tomb of China’s first Emperor Qin Shi Huangdi.

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China’s Holistic Historical Timeline


Don’t Drive in Beijing—Take the Subway

July 8, 2010

Believe me when I say to avoid driving in Beijing (or taking a taxi) unless it is midnight and the city is sleeping.  According to Belinda Goldsmith writing for Reuters, Beijing is one of the three-worst cities to drive in.

We’ve been stuck in Beijing traffic watching the taxi’s meter adding yuan to the bill when we could have crawled faster.  The other choice is Beijing’s subway built for the 2008 Beijing Olympics, which we prefer. It’s fast and efficient. Wear a money belt though.

Beijing Subway Map

Guangzhou (once known as Canton by the West) subway map

Chongqing Metro Map

Shanghai Subway Map

Information about getting around in Xian

Last time we were in Xian, the subway system was under construction. I learned that of the four lines planned, line one is scheduled to be running by the end of 2013 and line two by the end of 2011.

According to Michael Wurth’s Blog, Xian was boring and “very” hot. Wurth talks about renting a tandem bike and riding it on the wide, ancient Xian city wall claiming to make the ride in under 4 minutes, which is surprising since the wall runs about 17 kilometers.  Personally, when we were on the wall, I enjoyed the experience but we were there in the Fall and the weather was perfect.  If you want to visit China, plan for the Fall or Spring and avoid any of China’s national holidays.

See Visiting Xian

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Lloyd Lofthouse is the award-winning author of the concubine saga, My Splendid Concubine & Our Hart. When you love a Chinese woman, you marry her family and culture too. 

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